In the subsection the case of two-cycle is explained. These EGR technologies can be applied to two-cycle and four cycle engines. Optimum over all EGR operating zone with 15% EGR below 90% engine load and 30% EGR below 75% load was frozen with respect to engine and part load condition of engine as shown in Fig.17.ĮGR systems are classified into low- and high-pressure exhaust gas recirculation (LP EGR and HP EGR) systems. To suit this condition EGR mapping was done with respect to throttle position and engine speed on vehicle when it runs on ECE -EUDC cycle.
Egr remover 1.4 full#
Low EGR flow is needed during low speed and light load conditions and no EGR flow should occur during engine warm up, idle and full throttle condition so that EGR operation could not adversely affect engine operating efficiency or vehicle drivability. Usually EGR flow should match engine operating conditions such as higher EGR flow is necessary during cruising and mid-range acceleration, when combustion temperatures are typically very high. By diluting the air/fuel mixture under these conditions, peak combustion temperatures and pressures are reduced, resulting in an overall reduction of NOx output. The EGR system reduces NOx production by circulating small amounts of exhaust gases into the intake manifold where it mixes with the incoming air/fuel charge. NOx is formed in high concentrations whenever combustion temperatures nearing adiabatic flame temperature. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.The engine EGR system is designed to reduce the amount of oxides of Nitrogen produced by the engine during operating periods that usually result in high combustion temperatures. The goal here is to get rid of the drop in power when the ECU spits it's dummy, and get the car driveable, it's a reasonable ride when it's playing fair. (Hope this makes sense) pic also includedĤ- The opposite end of the pipe run I think it goes on the top back right side of the engine, theres a ropey looking blank that could well be where it should go (pic attached) Easy enough to replace.ġ- is the 2008 tdci EGR valve vaccum operated or should it be electric as I suspect?Ģ- If it's electric, what does the plug for the egr look like? I found a 5 pin yellow (see pic) one loose that I'm not sure about but could be the beast in question.ģ- The egr cooler, is it filled with coolant? Where do the pipes go too/from? Or is it cooled in some other way? In the vicinity of the coolers location is a hose coming forward from the bulkhead and into a pair of pipes that run side to side, it would make sense that this is one end of the cooler, and maybe a short pipe attached from the other end of the cooler would then go where the hose is currently connected. Quick look on eBay reveals the pipes and bits aren't cheap new, but second hand I can get the major bits for £30. I think what's been attempted is blanking off the EGR system by removing everything, which is I believe supposed to be accompanied by deletion in the ECU, so everything works ok. There's however no signs of a vacuum pipe in the area, just a straight run from pump to brake servo. This at least explains the egr faults cropping up. Most of the EGR systems been blanked and is now missing, and curiously there's a vacuum operated EGR fitted, with an open end that should I now know go through the egr cooler into the back of the engine on the drivers side. Quick scan retrieved the usual multiple spurious fault codes, cleared and left me with P0406 egr valve high input, that wouldn't clear.ĭecided to have a delve after work, airbox and pipes off, fuel filter off, which left me with something I really didn't expect. Suspect the previous owners been a tinkered without the knowledge to do jobs properly. Power drops, and the thing won't Rev over 2500 RPM. Driving along, and the light pops on with a warning there's engine issues. Ok 1.4 tdci, bought a couple of months ago.
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